In 1911, a carved stone was discovered covering a culvert near Cripps Road in Galle. The finder, provincial engineer Mr H.F. Tomalin, had it removed to safety. Scholarly excitement was immediate, but the inscriptions were only deciphered with some difficulty.
The tablet was erected in 1411, to commemorate the second visit to Sri Lanka by the Chinese admiral Zheng He(1), who commanded seven great voyages through the South China Seas and the Indian ocean between 1405 and 1433.
On the first voyage, Zheng He reached Sri Lanka in 1406. The local ruler was unfriendly and the expedition hastily departed. The fleet sailed on to Calicut, the furthest port for the first expedition, where they were most impressed by the acumen and straight dealing of the traders.
The second expedition went as far as Siam. The third sailed from China in 1409, and carried with it the trilingual tablet which Zheng He planned to erect in Sri Lanka. The date equates to 15 February 1409, indicating that it was inscribed in Nanjing before the fleet set out. The Chinese portion gives praise to Buddha and records lavish offerings in his honour:
'His Majesty the Emperor of the Great Ming dynasty has despatched the eunuchs Zheng He, Wang Jinghong and others to set forth his utterances before Lord Buddha, the World-Honoured One:
Deeply do we revere you, merciful and honoured one, whose bright perfection is wide-embracing, and whose way of virtue passes all understanding, whose law pervades all human relations, and the years of whose great era are as numerous as the sands of the river; you whose controlling influence ennobles and converts, whose kindness quickens, and whose strength discerns, whose mysterious efficacy is beyond compare! The mountainous isle of Sri Lanka lies in the south of the ocean, and its Buddhist temples are sanctuaries of your gospel, where your miraculous responsive power imbues and enlightens.
Of late we have despatched missions to announce our mandates to foreign nations, and during their journey over the ocean they have been favoured with the blessing of your benificent protection. They escaped disaster or misfortune, and journeyed in safety to and fro.
In everlasting recognition of your supreme virtue, we therefore bestow offerings in recompense, and do now reverently present before Buddha, the Honoured One, oblations of gold and silver, gold embroidered jewelled banners of variegated silk, incense burners and flower vases, silks of many colours in lining and exterior, lamps, candles, and other gifts, in order to manifest the high honour of the Lord Buddha. May his light shine upon the donors.
List of alms bestowed as offerings at the shrine of the Buddhist temple in the mountain of Ceylon:
1,000 pieces of gold; 5,000 pieces of silver; 50 rolls of embroidered silk in many colours; 50 rolls of silk taffeta, in many colours; 4 pairs of jewelled banners, gold embroidered and of variegated silk, 2 pairs of the same picked in red, one pair of the same in yellow, one pair in black; 5 antique brass incense burners; 5 pairs of antique brass flower vases picked in gold on lacquer, with gold stands; 5 yellow brass lamps picked in gold on lacquer with gold stands; 5 incense vessels in vermilion red, gold picked on lacquer, with gold stands; 6 pairs of golden lotus flowers; 2,500 catties of scented oil; 10 pairs of wax candles; 10 sticks of fragrant incense.
[Date]. A reverent oblation.'(2)
The Tamil portion of the tablet offered similar praise to the god Tenavarai-Nayanar, perhaps a local form of Shiva, and the Arabic inscription gave praise to Allah. To each god the Chinese offered similar lavish tributes.
Such tactful even-handedness suggests that the Chinese were dealing with a cosmoplitan trading community. However, the aura of orderly diplomacy dissipated rapidly. The island comprised three warring states, and it was the chief Alakeswara who met Zheng He. Refusing to allow erection of the tablet, which he presumably considered a declaration of sovereignty, he beat the Chinese in a brief skirmish and drove them back to their ships. They sailed on to India, but returned to avenge the insult. What happened next is controversial, and the accounts are confused, but the Chinese abducted 'the king' (Alakeswara in the Chinese account, the legitimate king of Kotte according to the Sinhalese account). The captives were taken to the Ming capital at Nanjing, but released by the emperor and returned to Sri Lanka. There are stories of the Chinese taking the Sacred Tooth of the Buddha. Author Louise Levathes, trying to make sense of the conflicting accounts, guesses that the captive was the King of Kotte, who took the relic with him to China in order to prevent it from falling into the hands of the usurper Alakeswara, but in any event the Tooth too was soon back in Sri Lanka. The Yongle emperor claimed sovereignty over Sri Lanka and demanded regular tribute, and the Sinhalese went along with this for over forty years before refuting the obligation in 1459.
As well as the various religious influences in the country, the Chinese had noted its tremendous wealth of gemstones and pearls. They remarked on the curious impression in the country's highest mountain, a giant 'footprint' which Buddhists associate with the Buddha, Moslems with Adam, and Hindus with the god Shiva.
The interior of this mountain produces red rubies, blue sapphires, yellow Oriental topaz, and other gems; they have each and every precious stone. Whenever heavy rain occurs, the water rushes out of the earth and flows down amidst the sand, and the people search in the sand for the stones. There is a saying that the precious stones are the crystallised tears of Buddha.(3)
The trilingual inscription is in the National Museum in Colombo; a copy may be found in the Maritime Museum in Galle.
(http://cf.hum.uva.nl/galle/galle/trilingual.html)
The United Nations Educational and Scientific Cultural Organisation (UNSECO) has designated Galle as the venue for the proposed field school for Maritime Archaeology for the entire Asia Pacific region. UNESCO has granted
A total package of US $ 4.5 million which the UNESCO has provided the Government of China has been channeled to Sri Lanka with the amounts being increased to US $ 1.1 million for the years 2006 and 2007.
This project will be the epicentre for the training of marine archeologists with Dr. Bill Jeffery of Australia’s Townsville University and James Cooke also being on the panel of instructors and lecturers, Central Cultural Fund’s Director of Scientific Research Dr. Mohan Abeyratne told Mirror Life in an interview. Here, historical aspects of Sri Lanka’s maritime heritage is listed below:
The last of our traditional sailing ships
The last Sinhala sailing ships were dubbed as the Yathra Dhonis or Maha Oruwa of Dodanduwa. This is an ancient type of ship in use from the fifth century AD to the 1930s,and carried cargo all over the Indian Ocean. In about 1930, two friends joined forces to build and launch a Yathra that was fated to be the last of her breed. Kariyavasam Patuvata Vithanage Don Siyadoris de Silva, land owner, and Punchi Sinno Marakkalaehe, mariner, hoped that their ship, the Amugoda Oruva, would do brisk business with South India and the Maldives.
To mark her maiden voyage to Male, verses and folklore were composed but alas, she foundered on a reef in Male and was lost. The crew was also missing and presumed dead. However, years later, some of the crew came home, with pieces of the ship as proof. In 1993 the MAU discovered a 4 ft. long, perfect model of a Yathra at Kumarakanda Temple in Dodanduwa. We visited the temple with the Australians who were our trainers, examined it, made measurements. Would such a ship really sail? And how well?
So the measurements were tested on a computer programme, "Macsurf', which confirmed that she was a good sailing vessel. The computer also produced technical drawings (all published in our first report of 1993) which will help us build another Maha Oruwa, some day in the future. Today the model is in the Colombo Museum.
The wreck of a Jaffna ship
Sri Lankan mariners existed in the north of the island too. The Jaffna ships, called Thonis, were large cargo ships, traditional inside in appearance they were copies of European and Indian ships.
They had eyes on either side of the bow, a shrine to god Shiva inside, and a row of false gun-ports were painted along the sides.
Her bones are sometimes visible under certain conditions and the MAU could not find her on a quick visit. The people from the wadiya close by had taken bits and pieces and sold some. Our team was able to see what was left and list what had been removed. Small iron cannon, a statue of a god, Chinese pottery and brass cooking vessels had been sold. We were able to see the small Maldivian type coconuts smashed at the start of the journey, quantities of cowrie shells (probably cargo), typical Asian cooking implements, cannon balls, pieces of wood, beautiful ivory and iron tools, a collection of weights, and most important, a much-repaired Astrolabe, a medieval European navigational tool. Where are these now, and when can we excavate the ship? Only the MAU can do this, if funds are available.
The Great Basses Silver Wreck
In the early 1960s, Sri Lankan sports divers Arthur C. Clarke, Mike Wilson and Rodney Jonklaas found many shipwrecks. One was carrying a cargo of sacks of silver coins minted in India. She broke up and sank in the Great Basses, or Maha Ravana Kotuwa.
A film Ranmuthuduwa was made using this wreck. But all the tons of silver have been taken out of the island. The great majority were stolen and advertised for sale . They are made into jewellery and are said to be secretly sold in Sri Lanka, even today. MAU investigated the site and mapped it to assess its archaeological value. MAU recovered several hundred coins. which are the only ones officially in this country. We found guns, beads, Chinese pottery, cannon balls and large anchors. MAU must be used to study and protect it. At present it is being exploited by several treasure hunters with metal detectors etc.
Ancient Oru-Paru in inland waters
In 1993, when the first group was under training, a part of an oruwa was found in a small stream in Lathpandura. This was one of the two dug-out chine strakes, called iri kaduwa. It was examined, photographed and papers published but is still there in the stream because part of it is under a bund. Later, other such pieces were found all over the rivers on the western province. The largest was found in the Attanagalu Oya and the wood was dated to the 9th century AD. This iri kaduwa was, fortunately, rescued and is undergoing conservation at the Colombo Museum with specialist advice on conservation provided by the MAU. In the Kuru Ganga an old logboat was discovered and is in the Ratnapura Museum. In the Colombo Museum there is another large oru kanda which has been scientifically dated to be older than the 2nd Century BC.
Anchors from Arab ships - pre-colonial users of Galle port
Ships were sailing around Sri Lanka for many centuries. Galle was one of the many ports in the southern coast - others were Weligama, Matara, Ambalantota, Hambantota, etc. Galle was an important port but became more important after the Portuguese came to India.
It was used by the Arab traders and the Portuguese discovered it only by accident. The MAU discovered the ancient anchorage used by these sailors, and the stone anchors used by them. There were several but the largest one was estimated to be about a ton in weight. It was the first Arab-type anchor found intact with its wooden arms. The wooden parts were sent to Australia for preservation and are ready to be brought back. They were dated to 1390 AD and the stone was examined and found to be likely to be from Oman, where these anchors were made as an industry. The stone anchors are in the MA U Laboratory in Galle.
Sri Lanka's international training - the UNESCO field school project
Sri Lanka has led the way in Asia in collaborating with foreign experts while keeping policy and control in our own hands. Visiting maritime archaeologists work with our team, and provide training and equipment. Sri Lanka follows the UNESCO Rules even though we have not yet signed the Convention. Draft Legislation on the subject is ready for presentation to Cabinet. The approach has been held up as an example how a developing nation can enter this field without losing national control.
In recognition of our efforts, UNESCO has proposed to fund a field school in Galle, where Sri Lankan and foreign experts will conduct basis training to trainees from other countries in the Asia-Pacific region. Eventually, the POlAR will conduct a post-graduate course in maritime archaeology. It is now our turn to help other developing nations in the interests of Asian maritime heritage studies.
(Pictures courtesy Central Cultural Fund)
Strongly built Janos, has been in the rud sport and later as coach and technical consultant and had been involved with the sport for over 30 years. He is here on an assignment through the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNDP), while stationed at New Delhi. He came to Sri Lanka on Sept. 11 and will return on Sept. 30 after training the local coaches on the talent techniques in canoeing (Rowing).
Janos said, “Canoeing is the third most popular sport in the Olympic calendar barring athletics and swimming. These three sports offer the largest number of medals to the participants”.
Speaking about his trip to Sri Lanka and it taking a serious canoeing Janoes said “This country has many lakes around the country. Sri Lanka could be a force to reckon with through total commitment. Your trainers must show interest for the sport. Today about 20 coaches attended the training programme. They could make an impact after the next SAF Games held here (2006). The requirements are -- to achieve success. 1) Technique, 2) Proper Training, 3) Physical Strength, 4) Nutrients. Incidentally Sri Lanka is not short of men in the coastal districts (South) and in the North, who have the strength to pull fishing nets to make the grade”.
Mr. Prithiviraj Perera Chief Administration Programme Specialist/Culture UNESCO House, New Delhi and Yohan Thurainayagam (St. Joseph's Rowing Club) were associated with Janos at this briefing. The first seminar was held at the CRC Colombo on Sept. 18 and 19. The second at Belihuloya from 20-23. The third will be at the St. Joseph's College Rowing Club from Sept. 25-27.
The final training session will be at the Ranweli Beach Hotel, Kochchikade, in the morning from 6.30 a.m. to 9 a.m. The afternoon session will be from 4.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. He leaves on Sept. 30 to New Delhi. (headquarters).,
Plans are afoot to put up a Board House on the East Bay of the Beira Lake shortly to add more facilities - for canoeing. Prithiviraj Perera said, “our objective is to promote the aqua sport at grassroots level and get more people involved islandwide.
St. Joseph's College Darley Road, is one of the leading schools promoting and developing rowing at school level. They are in the forefront in rowing. The Josephian Rowing Club will have to decided to put up a Boat House withins its precincts. They will give other schools around Colombo to make use of this facility as part of their promotional drive said, Yohan an official of the club”.
Those who wish to follow the training and coaching programme of Janos during his stay here, could contact Yohan on - 0777-315949.
(http://www.sundaytimes.lk/050925/sports/10.html)
The only sea diving that was ever heard of in ancient times was diving for pearls where the pearl divers braved great depths without any modern equipment to ease breathing and reduce pressure.
Brohier, in his book ‘Seeing Ceylon’, explains how the pearl divers working at the pearl reefs in Seelawathurai, dived in from boats without any safety equipment with just stones used as weights. ‘The pearl divers would then emerge after nearly one and a half minutes with some oysters in their hands and after throwing them to the pile of oysters in the boat again dive for more oysters,’ he
explained. Gone are the oyster divers and the celebrated oyster reefs of Ceylon but diving is now here to stay.
At a later stage in 1864/5, Viennese landscape and genre painter, Eugene de Ransonnet, visited the island and used a diving-bell to sketch the coral banks off the port of Galle. His sketches are published in ‘Sketches of Ceylon’ by R.K.De Silva.
At the same time the British too used divers to check the status of the hulls of the ships anchored in Colombo and Trincomalee. But it was not until the late 1930s, when face masks, snorkels and flippers arrived on the island, that the wonderfully rich and varied underwater life around it could be viewed with comparative ease, if only from the surface. During World War 2, divers were used defensively to carry out underwater patrols of the bases in case of Japanese infiltration but it would be while before locals start diving for fun.
In Post Independent Sri Lanka, diving was taken up by the Reef Combers Club of Ceylon, which consisted of locals and foreigners who were engaged in fully equipped diving as a hobby and spear fishermen, who were expert divers as well as spearmen and the self taught locals, who dived for corals, lobsters and underwater treasures.
With the dawn of the 1960s and the chance meeting of pioneer divers Arthur C. Clarke, Mike Wilson with renowned spearfisher Rodney Jonklaas, at the Colombo harbour, started the golden age of diving in Sri Lanka.
Many a diving place were discovered by the trio during their pursuit to film shark in the oceans around Sri Lanka attracting divers from around the world to the island. The oceans attracted the visitors from London who were on a short trip to Sri Lanka to film the sharks and they decided to make Sri Lanka their permanent home.
Parallel to their underwater exploration, Wilson and Clarke endeavoured, without much success, to establish a diving business known as Clarke-Wilson Associates. Their tasks at the time included the cleaning of water inlet and sewage outlet grills of ships in the Colombo harbour, and morbid ones, such as the retrieval of corpses. The most demanding and perilous job they performed was at Castlereagh Dam, where they had to work in the claustrophobic confines of a 40 cm wide shutter case with oxygen piped from the surface.
Meanwhile the discovery of stunning spots around the country and spreading of aqua lungs and scuba diving techniques among the locals opened a new page in diving in Sri Lanka. Many locals too started exploring great depths in scuba and skin diving and started achieving great depths. Two pioneer local divers, Benny Fernando and Reeves Neydorff, remember the good old times when they travelled the Indian Ocean from Negombo to Trincomalee in search of lobsters.
“We used to start near Colombo harbour and travel around the southern coast skin diving near the sand reefs all along in search of lobsters,” said Mr. Fernando, fondly known as Uncle Benny .Although diving for lobsters was their trade, he remembers how enthralled he was with the coral and the fish life surrounding it. “Sometimes we used to see various schools of fish but our main concern was to dive greatest depths in competition with others,” he said adding that he was able to skin dive 50 feet at any given moment.
Remembering the times when diving was all about fun and looting, Uncle Benny says how they scavenged any sellable item from the wrecks around the country during their journeys around the island. “We were too young to realise the important ecology around the shipwrecks and their archaeological value but only were in search of silver and brass,” he says relating a story how a friend of his sold a collection of Dutch VOC coins he found at Great Basses for silver.
According to Uncle Benny, Great Basses is one of the greatest dives around the country. “Situated nearly 12 miles away in the middle of the sea, Great Basses is a comparatively untouched diving spot with a rock base and schools of fishes creating an out of earth picture,” he said.
Today the hunter turned conservationist, Uncle Benny, is operating his boat house and is handing over his diving skills to the next generation. He speaks proudly of the next generation of divers -Malinda Abeyratne, who is pursuing the dying art of skin diving with enthusiasm. Not long ago he had skin dived nearly 93 feet at Swami Rock in Trincomalee where he had seen the stone pillars of Koneshwaram temple in the sea.
He silently acknowledges the praises and challenges by the pioneers but disagrees that he is the best. Yet with youngsters like Malinda on line, diving in Sri Lanka seems to hold a profound future.
(http://www.dailymirror.lk/2005/09/22/life/01.asp)